We head to Clam Bar – which has taken over the former Bridge Room space in Sydney’s CBD – mid-week and hungry. The outside doesn’t give much away except for tinted glass and silver doors with the words Clam Bar in giant letters. It looks grand and important.

If the outside city is grey, then the inside of Clam Bar is light years away from that. Herringbone timber flooring and Art Deco chandeliers the colour of toffee add sophistication; while Murano clam-shaped lights are a nice nod to the creatures of the sea. Speaking of the ocean, an illuminated sea life painting by artist Laura Jones hangs on the wall, alongside a giant fish. At the back, vintage posters of Ortiz anchovies and Rosella tomato sauce bring character above chocolate-coloured seating. It does verge into 50 shades of brown territory, even with the pops of verdant palms and red and white cartoon-like drawings, but it’s a classy, cosy and slick space, and we’d like one Negroni, please.

Clam Bar is inspired by the great steakhouses of New York – Pepperell, Clift and Tyson went there on a research trip before opening this spot. So yes, prime-aged steaks are on the menu, including a New York strip, a rib-eye and a porterhouse. Plus, there’s a Barnsley lamb chop. But it’s the other stuff that excites us more.

The raw bar menu is reminiscent of a retro dinner party, with oysters Rockefeller and crudites and egg salad. We kick things off with oysters metropole, served with nuoc cham (a Vietnamese dipping sauce) and lemongrass chipolatas. Yes, oysters and tiny sausages. The Sydney rock oysters are creamy and briney. The cold mollusc is juxtaposed with the hot, glistening chipolata, and the punchy dressing – vibrant from coriander and lime – adds acid and freshness and takes us back to our recent trip to Hoi An.

Meaty and tender poached scarlett red tiger prawns are served on ice with their heads alongside a duo of sauces. A cocktail sauce comes with a whack of peppery horseradish, though we prefer the creamy and spiced Old Bay mayo. We pair this with a glass of dry sparkling Burgundy, which is ever so slightly pink in colour, and absolutely sublime.